Garage door openers, repaired as often as replaced
Belt drives, chain drives, jackshaft units and commercial operators. Most opener faults are a gear, a board or a sensor rather than a new unit, and we will tell you which one you have.
What we work on
Residential openers and commercial operators, any major brand.
- Stripped gears and couplings
- The grinding noise with no movement. The door is usually fine, which is why this is normally a repair.
- Logic boards and remotes
- Boards, receivers, keypads, remotes and smartphone modules, including reprogramming after a board swap.
- Safety sensors and travel limits
- The blinking light and the door that will not close. Often a same-visit fix, and sometimes something we can talk you through on the phone.
- New openers when it is time
- Belt drive if the garage is under a bedroom, battery backup so the door works in an outage, smartphone control if you want to check it from the road.
- Commercial operators
- Jackshaft and trolley units sized to the cycle count, on sectional doors and rolling steel.
Repair or replace an opener
A ten-year-old unit with a bad gear is worth fixing. One with a failing board and no safety sensors usually is not.
Worth repairing when
- The noise is a grind and the door does not move at all
- The unit is under about ten years old
- It has working photo eyes and a functioning safety reverse
- The problem is a remote, a keypad or a sensor alignment
- The motor is quiet and the failure is mechanical
What happens on the visit
- We test the door by hand first, because an opener straining on an unbalanced door is a spring problem
- Photo eyes, travel limits and force settings all get checked
- You get the repair price and the replacement price when both make sense
- Limits are reset and the safety reverse tested before we leave
- Remotes and keypads are reprogrammed and handed back working
Opener questions
My opener grinds but the door does not move. What is wrong?
Usually a stripped gear in the opener. The door itself is normally fine, which is why this is often a repair rather than a replacement.
The door will not close and the light is blinking.
Almost always the safety sensors, sometimes a travel limit. It is often a same-visit fix, and sometimes we can talk you through it on the phone.
What should I look for in a new opener?
Belt drive if the garage is under a bedroom, battery backup so the door still works in an outage, and smartphone control if you want to check it from the road. We will show you the differences rather than upselling the top of the range.
Can I still open the door if the power is out?
Yes, using the emergency release, but only if the door is balanced. If a spring is broken the door will drop when you pull the cord. Call before you pull it.
Do you service brands you did not install?
Yes, including LiftMaster, Genie, Chamberlain and older units where parts are still available.
More answers on the full FAQ page.
Where we work
Two shops cover most of Southern and Eastern Idaho between them. Call the one closest to you and you reach the shop that sends the truck, not a call center.
Magic Valley & Wood River Valley
Dispatched from the Kimberly shop, 473 Hankins Rd S
(208) 734-4657Twin Falls, Kimberly, Jerome, Filer, Buhl, Hansen, Wendell, Gooding, Burley, Rupert, Heyburn, Shoshone, Castleford, Hazelton, Eden, Murtaugh, Paul, Declo, Hailey, Ketchum and Bellevue.
Eastern Idaho
Dispatched from the Idaho Falls shop
(208) 273-1557Idaho Falls, Pocatello, Chubbuck, Blackfoot, Rexburg, Shelley, Ammon, Rigby, Iona, Ucon, Firth, Sugar City, St. Anthony and Menan.
Not on the list? Call and ask. We go further than the map suggests.
Get the opener looked at before it strands a car
An opener working hard against a badly balanced door is the most common way a small problem becomes two.
